Last Call: The Sake Solution

by swerve , under Reviews, The Magazine

When it comes to alcohol, we Aussies and Kiwis tend to be a bit vanilla in our tastes. While there’s nothing wrong with traditional beer, wine and spirits, the fact remains that a mid-week piss-up is always fraught with the danger of a bastard hangover—and there’s not much worse than slogging through a hot working day with a foggy head, sick gut and bugger-all energy. But maybe there’s an exotic beverage that can help… 

The sake exception
Sake (pronounced “sah-kee”) is the ultimate alcoholic hybrid: it’s not a spirit because it’s not distilled, it’s closer to wine because it’s fermented, but it’s also beer-like in that it’s made from a grain—rice. Claims that drinking sake results in little to no hangover stem from the process by which it’s created.

Processing
Using a milling machine, the rice is polished down to as little as 40 per cent of its original kernel size. The idea is to remove as much of the bran-rich layers as possible, leaving a pure starch heart. From here, the rice is washed, steamed and incubated with a combination of yeast and water to begin the fermentation. A process that will sound familiar to any home brewers out there. Once this is complete, the result is a pure alcoholic beverage that is free from sulphites, not to mention anti-allergenic and histamine-free.

Playing scientist
But is all sake hangover-free or just the expensive stuff? To find out, I stuck with a bottle sold at the lower end of the price spectrum. As with wines, there are different varieties that affect the taste, long-term palatability and serving suggestions (specifically, serving temperature). There are three standard types.
Rule of three
The first type of sake is called junmai-shu, and is made from a combination of water, rice and kõji (the brewing ingredient that breaks the rice starch into sugar), using rice that has been polished to at least 70 per cent of its original weight.

Next up is junmai ginjo-shu, the middle level of quality as it relates to sake. This sake variety differs from junmai-shu by making use of more labour-intensive steps using highly polished rice of at least 60 per cent ofits original weight.
The final and highest quality sake is known as junmai daiginjo-shu. This is actually a sub-class of junmai ginjo-shu, albeit with more precise brewing methods, including extremely highly polished rice of at least 50 per cent of its original weight. 

Sake science
Experiment night consisted of me consuming more than half a bottle of straightjunmai-shu with a light meal of sushi. The sake was definitely an acquired taste, with no noticeable change in aroma or flavour when consumed at room temperature, chilled or on ice. This comes as no surprise, though, as this lower-quality type is certainly not renowned for its fragrant properties.

A note to the wise—it’s best to drink cheap sake either warm or icy as this will mask the less appealing taste. But back to the experiment…I woke up the next day sans hangover, proving to myself that sake is indeed an alcoholic beverage that can be enjoyed generously during the working week without worrying too muchabout nasty post-drinking side-effects.

 

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