Last Call: Robert Geddes’ Commandments of Summer Wine

You’ve just launched the 28th edition of Australian Wine Vintages. What can you tell us about it?
It’s a book for anyone who finds wine buying difficult; a reference book to help people find what’s good, when to drink it and what it’s worth,as well as where to eat and sleep in our wine regions, which makers to visit and when to visit them. I like this book because it gives credit to the people who deserve it, and I like books about wine because we—the human race—have really elevated the art and science, and every year it gets better.
What draws you to wine?
I’m fascinated with the idea that the same grape can taste different in different places. On top of that, understanding why involves travel to sophisticated and exotic regions—sometimes even wild places—and it involves associating myself with lots of good people, with whom I spend a great deal of time eating and drinking. It’s certainly a lot more fun than farming when I was young, and that’s how it began!
How did you become a Master of Wine?
To qualify for the title, you need seven years’ trade experience, then you do a course and pass a week of exams. The exams start with a blind tasting of 12 wines in the morning, then you write a page on each. In the afternoon, you finish with a two-and-a-half-hour essay.
So it’s a rare achievement?
Only 283 people in the world have passed the exams since 1953—more astronauts have returned from space.
Impressive! What’s the key to buying wine?
The most important part is where it comes from. The minimum you need to know is three regions that make good wine.
What are your favourite regions?
The next ones! It’s all about being as promiscuous as possible while keeping it in your pants. It’s a terrific opportunity to rove widely and really explore.
In terms of taste, what are the basic differences between the red and white varieties?
Whites live by their acidity, which gives freshness, crispness and lightness. Reds live by their tannins, which give you that yummy mouth feel we all associate with great reds—the texture, length and thick, sensual flavours.
What are your top tips for properly experiencing wine?
Be adventurous, be varied, drink what you like. Find a favourite region, then try other ones—the good grape varieties will soon reveal themselves and let you know by how much you enjoy them. The secret of wine is that it’s a journey, so drink, taste, talk, share and remember, and you will find wine a good friend that changes as your tastes change.
What will you be drinking this summer?
I will be drinking—depending on the food and the company—old Hunter Sémillon, Pinot gris or grigio from Victoria, sparklings from Tasmania, Riesling from Clare, Margaret River Sémillon Sauvignon blanc, and Pinot noir from Victoria and Tasmania.
How about wine beginners—what should they be drinking?
Sauvignon blanc. The two Sauvignon blancs I have the highest regard for in Australia belong to Philip Shaw from Orange and Shaw and Smith from the Adelaide Hills. So if I had to drink something with a Thai salad, on a warm Sydney afternoon, I would be drinking Shaw and Smith Sauvignon blanc. If you can’t get your hands on those, there are a number of other good Adelaide Hills and Orange Sauvignon blancs that would work.
What exactly should we be looking for in a summer wine?
Cold, clear, crisp and young!
Which wine would you suggest a man take to the home of his special lady?
If he’s trying to impress somebody who doesn’t know a lot about wine, I would do it one of two ways. I would either take a magnum of Champagne, because you’re guaranteed to get a result, or else I would say that two half bottles equals one, so I would take half a bottle of something like a Mount Mary Chardonnay, and I’d take half a bottle of good Penfolds red, so you can mix and match. But you’ll never go wrong with Champagne.